Cotton Alternatives As Large Scale Industry Solutions
Cotton is the leading fiber of use within the fashion and textile industry, making up nearly half of the total fiber usage worldwide [1]. When thinking about how much cotton this actually is, it is important to look at the amount of freshwater and land use that goes into cotton production, let alone the other mostly synthetic fibers that make up the other half.
As mentioned on the site, cotton is in nearly 40% of our clothing, while at the same time being one of the leading chemically and water dependant crops out there. While cotton takes up 2.4% of the world’s crop land (this is a very large amount considering the total crops grown), it accounts for 24% of the global sales and use of insecticides, and 11% of global sales and use of pesticides. Agriculture is the largest source of pollution in many countries, and the unsafe use of these chemicals can have severe health impacts on the workers and ecosystems that are polluted by run-off from farms [1].
Even more importantly though, is the water usage that goes into cotton production. Did you know that it takes nearly 713 US gallons of water to make just one t-shirt (that is roughly 2,700 liters)? With the amount of clean, accessible freshwater on our planet being only 0.01% of all total water on Earth, we can see that this crop is largely unsustainable (2.5% of Earth’s water is freshwater, but only 0.3% is accessible to humans) [2]. Of that 0.01% of clean water, only 8% goes towards domestic use, while 22% is used by industries, and a whopping 70% is used for irrigation. Cotton is a crop which needs nice, irrigated land in most areas to be grown properly and effectively. Cotton is associated with a significant natural capital dependency because of its heavy reliance on water for irrigation, land requirements, and the chemicals used that pollute the land, water, and air. Over 53% of cotton fields globally require irrigation to be grown effectively, and the majority of these farms are located where water is already a scarce resource [3].
As we can see, the time is now to start exploring other and more sustainable options for the fashion and textile industries. With our current rate of consumption on these types of products and the natural resources that go along with that consumption,, it will all inevitably come to a dangerous end even in the most abundant, developed countries.
There has been a number of more recent innovations with natural and raw materials to replace the unsustainable cotton plant, and some of them seem to be pretty amazing candidates:
Cotton is the leading fiber of use within the fashion and textile industry, making up nearly half of the total fiber usage worldwide [1]. When thinking about how much cotton this actually is, it is important to look at the amount of freshwater and land use that goes into cotton production, let alone the other mostly synthetic fibers that make up the other half.
As mentioned on the site, cotton is in nearly 40% of our clothing, while at the same time being one of the leading chemically and water dependant crops out there. While cotton takes up 2.4% of the world’s crop land (this is a very large amount considering the total crops grown), it accounts for 24% of the global sales and use of insecticides, and 11% of global sales and use of pesticides. Agriculture is the largest source of pollution in many countries, and the unsafe use of these chemicals can have severe health impacts on the workers and ecosystems that are polluted by run-off from farms [1].
Even more importantly though, is the water usage that goes into cotton production. Did you know that it takes nearly 713 US gallons of water to make just one t-shirt (that is roughly 2,700 liters)? With the amount of clean, accessible freshwater on our planet being only 0.01% of all total water on Earth, we can see that this crop is largely unsustainable (2.5% of Earth’s water is freshwater, but only 0.3% is accessible to humans) [2]. Of that 0.01% of clean water, only 8% goes towards domestic use, while 22% is used by industries, and a whopping 70% is used for irrigation. Cotton is a crop which needs nice, irrigated land in most areas to be grown properly and effectively. Cotton is associated with a significant natural capital dependency because of its heavy reliance on water for irrigation, land requirements, and the chemicals used that pollute the land, water, and air. Over 53% of cotton fields globally require irrigation to be grown effectively, and the majority of these farms are located where water is already a scarce resource [3].
As we can see, the time is now to start exploring other and more sustainable options for the fashion and textile industries. With our current rate of consumption on these types of products and the natural resources that go along with that consumption,, it will all inevitably come to a dangerous end even in the most abundant, developed countries.
There has been a number of more recent innovations with natural and raw materials to replace the unsustainable cotton plant, and some of them seem to be pretty amazing candidates:
BANANA STEMS
Billions of tons of banana plant stems are wasted every year on plantations, either thrown away or burned. Since these plantations already exist for the bananas themselves, banana stem fiber production would have little to no waste involved in its farming and production. The Philippine Textile Research Institute concluded in a 2012 study that plantations in the Philippines alone can generate over 300,000 tons of banana fiber – it would only take about 37kg of stems to produce 1kg of fiber [4]. For clarity, 300,000 tons is equal to 272,155,422kg of fiber, and 1kg of banana fiber can yield roughly two shirts. In comparison to the unsustainable production of cotton, banana plants do not require pesticides or fertilizers when grown in the tropics, and are often cultivated by small farmers who own their land. The fibers are spun, dyed and woven by small artisan communities that continue to pass down their trades to younger generations, keeping age-old traditions alive.
“Eco-textile company Offset Warehouse recognises the banana’s potential and currently partners with an NGO in Nepal to ensure banana fabric production supports the artisan sector by relying on local skills, and that workers are paid fairly and operate in safe conditions” [4]. If you want to see the process, with pictures, of how the banana plant is taken apart after harvest and broken down into fibers that can become almost anything, you can do so here. This process uses little to no electricity aside from being wasteless, and the resulting fabrics are extremely “soft, durable, and luxurious”. According to the Offset Warehouse founder, Charlie Ross, the material is ideal for both soft furnishings and fashion – perfect for jackets, skirts, and trousers [5]. Offset Warehouse already has products available on their website made of banana fabrics.
Billions of tons of banana plant stems are wasted every year on plantations, either thrown away or burned. Since these plantations already exist for the bananas themselves, banana stem fiber production would have little to no waste involved in its farming and production. The Philippine Textile Research Institute concluded in a 2012 study that plantations in the Philippines alone can generate over 300,000 tons of banana fiber – it would only take about 37kg of stems to produce 1kg of fiber [4]. For clarity, 300,000 tons is equal to 272,155,422kg of fiber, and 1kg of banana fiber can yield roughly two shirts. In comparison to the unsustainable production of cotton, banana plants do not require pesticides or fertilizers when grown in the tropics, and are often cultivated by small farmers who own their land. The fibers are spun, dyed and woven by small artisan communities that continue to pass down their trades to younger generations, keeping age-old traditions alive.
“Eco-textile company Offset Warehouse recognises the banana’s potential and currently partners with an NGO in Nepal to ensure banana fabric production supports the artisan sector by relying on local skills, and that workers are paid fairly and operate in safe conditions” [4]. If you want to see the process, with pictures, of how the banana plant is taken apart after harvest and broken down into fibers that can become almost anything, you can do so here. This process uses little to no electricity aside from being wasteless, and the resulting fabrics are extremely “soft, durable, and luxurious”. According to the Offset Warehouse founder, Charlie Ross, the material is ideal for both soft furnishings and fashion – perfect for jackets, skirts, and trousers [5]. Offset Warehouse already has products available on their website made of banana fabrics.
PINEAPPLE LEAVES
The founder of pioneer and innovative textile company Ananas Anam, Carmen Hijosa, developed an alternative to leather and petroleum-based textiles known as Piñatex. Also a byproduct of an already harvested fruit, the leaves of the pineapple plants are turned into fibers that can be used for garments and textiles. “Our leaves do not need any additional land, water, or fertilisers to grow,” says Juame Granja, a member of the Ananas Anam team [4]. Instead of creating waste, the process used to create Piñatex actually produces a biomass which can be used by farmers, once converted into a fertiliser, to grow the next pineapple harvest. This is generous progress in comparison to the waste, both toxic and non, and land use of cotton production. The resulting material is canvas-like and biodegradable, and could be up to 40% cheaper than good quality leather yet comparable to it. Piñatex is growing slowly, but other companies have started considering the use of this material as well, which is a step in the sustainable direction.
The founder of pioneer and innovative textile company Ananas Anam, Carmen Hijosa, developed an alternative to leather and petroleum-based textiles known as Piñatex. Also a byproduct of an already harvested fruit, the leaves of the pineapple plants are turned into fibers that can be used for garments and textiles. “Our leaves do not need any additional land, water, or fertilisers to grow,” says Juame Granja, a member of the Ananas Anam team [4]. Instead of creating waste, the process used to create Piñatex actually produces a biomass which can be used by farmers, once converted into a fertiliser, to grow the next pineapple harvest. This is generous progress in comparison to the waste, both toxic and non, and land use of cotton production. The resulting material is canvas-like and biodegradable, and could be up to 40% cheaper than good quality leather yet comparable to it. Piñatex is growing slowly, but other companies have started considering the use of this material as well, which is a step in the sustainable direction.
COCONUT HUSKS
I know. What CAN’T coconuts be used for? Not only are there never-ending uses for a coconut’s meat, milk, and water, but we have come to learn that the husks themselves have fibrous qualities. It is said that one thousand coconuts can make about 10kg of fiber, with a new harvest happening every 30-45 days [4]. Coir is the thickest and most resistant of all commercial natural fibres. It is a coarse, short fiber extracted from the outer shell of coconuts. Its low decomposition rate means it is a key advantage for making durable geo-textiles [6]. There are amazing environmental benefits to the use of coir as well. When woven into geotextiles and placed on areas in need of erosion control it promotes new vegetation by absorbing water and preventing top soil from drying out [6].
Currently, there are two outdoor clothing companies – Tog 24 and North Face – using a textile called cocona, also made from the coconut husks, but with the addition of volcanic materials. Cocona has a rapid drying time and a natural UV protection that is achieved without any chemical additives, being just two of the benefits of this alternative in outdoor wear. As a result, these brands are relying less on synthetic materials [4]. Just like the pineapple leaves, the coconut fibers can also be turned into a biowaste-charcoal and used by farmers as an organic fertiliser – already being done in the Maldives. This cycle can ensure that the coconut fashion supply chain would remain circular and beneficial, rather than harmful to the environment.
I know. What CAN’T coconuts be used for? Not only are there never-ending uses for a coconut’s meat, milk, and water, but we have come to learn that the husks themselves have fibrous qualities. It is said that one thousand coconuts can make about 10kg of fiber, with a new harvest happening every 30-45 days [4]. Coir is the thickest and most resistant of all commercial natural fibres. It is a coarse, short fiber extracted from the outer shell of coconuts. Its low decomposition rate means it is a key advantage for making durable geo-textiles [6]. There are amazing environmental benefits to the use of coir as well. When woven into geotextiles and placed on areas in need of erosion control it promotes new vegetation by absorbing water and preventing top soil from drying out [6].
Currently, there are two outdoor clothing companies – Tog 24 and North Face – using a textile called cocona, also made from the coconut husks, but with the addition of volcanic materials. Cocona has a rapid drying time and a natural UV protection that is achieved without any chemical additives, being just two of the benefits of this alternative in outdoor wear. As a result, these brands are relying less on synthetic materials [4]. Just like the pineapple leaves, the coconut fibers can also be turned into a biowaste-charcoal and used by farmers as an organic fertiliser – already being done in the Maldives. This cycle can ensure that the coconut fashion supply chain would remain circular and beneficial, rather than harmful to the environment.
GENETICALLY MODIFIED STRAWBERRY PLANTS
This last one is not necessarily natural, but never the less it is a plant for the future. Designer and researcher Carole Collet has taken the relationship between nature and technology to the next level with her Biolace project. While this concept is definitely for the future, it is very interesting at that. The Biolace project focuses on the “possibilities of developing systems where plants can be genetically modified” [4]. The main idea is to grow hydroponic organic greenhouses, where new species of plants would produce ‘augmented’ food at the same time as growing fabrics from their roots. “In such a scenario, we would harvest fruits and fabrics at the same time from the same plants” [7].
OTHER WELL KNOWN ALTERNATIVES
Of course there are other alternatives to cotton that are already being used for various products, such as hemp, bamboo, and tencel – all of which use less water and chemicals in their production than cotton.
BAMBOO
Bamboo requires very little water and no pesticides, as it is one of the most invasive plant species, to grow at rapid rates. A plant can be harvested every year of its life once it matures. Because bamboo requires less nutrients in soil than most other plants, it can grow in bad soil and even reclaim the ground for other plants. It is suggested by environmentalists that softening bamboo can be preferable to non-organic cotton and synthetics because bamboo clothing can break down easier in landfills after it is thrown away as well [8].
HEMP
Hemp has been used for centuries by many people and professions, widely because of its need for so little irrigation. In comparison to cotton, hemp uses four times less water during processing! Not to mention that cotton requires nearly twice as much land for every ton of finished textile – more land only means more irrigation for cotton in most places. Currently, it is illegal to grow industrial hemp in the United States without a DEA permit, but it can be imported from other countries[8]. We can only hope that eventually it can be grown in the United States, which would create jobs and economical financial impact.
TENCEL
Tencel is a fabric made from eucalyptus trees and can grow quickly on low-grade land. Since it is a man made fiber, it requires more energy to harvest than a natural fiber. However, a major benefit alone of tencel is that is has a closed-loop manufacturing process and almost 100% of its nontoxic solvent goes back into the system instead of becoming waste. Cotton takes about 2.5 acres of land per ton of fiber, while tencel only requires a half acre per ton of fiber. Aside from land usage, tencel uses a fraction of the water that goes into cotton production – 155 gallons per pound of fiber compared to a whopping 700-2,000 gallons per pound of cotton fiber. One store already carrying garments made of tencel is Anthropologie, although the fabric has been around in bedding and athletic wear since the 90s.
1. http://wwf.panda.org/about_our_earth/about_freshwater/freshwater_problems/thirsty_crops/cotton/
2. https://www.theguardian.com/sustainable-business/water-scarcity-fashion-industry
3. http://www.environmentalleader.com/2014/10/06/assessing-the-environmental-impact-of-the-fashion-world/
4. https://www.theguardian.com/sustainable-business/sustainable-fashion-blog/2015/mar/03/wearable-pineapple-banana-fruit-fashion-material
5. http://www.offsetwarehouse.com/resources/types-of-eco-fabric/banana.html
6. http://www.fao.org/economic/futurefibres/fibres/coir/en/
7. http://thisisalive.com/biolace/
8. http://www.care2.com/greenliving/4-eco-friendly-cotton-alternatives-infographic.html